![]() Once you've commit to a color, you're already in the bag for the negative points, so that's a sunk cost. If you have a double on red, playing a red 7 is worth more than playing a white 10 without a double. This sometimes results in the opponent feeling safe to ditch a better card of the same color.ħ) Keep an eye on the card count, and towards the end of each round, remember that some card are worth more than others. Sometimes I'm not paying attention, and I'll unnecessarily skip numbers of other colors because I'm thinking a couple turns ahead (or trying to anyway!)Ħ) Sometimes if I'm fishing for a double card, and you have > 20 points in a color already, I might put a 2 or 3 up on the table if I don't have another play. As soon as you put down the 7, don't expect 2-3 cards of that color to come out.ģ) If I have 15 or more points in a color but no double, I'll put the 2/3 up on the table if I have to.Ĥ) If I have 12 or more points and an opponent has already started a color, I will start that color without the double card in most cases rather than put the card on the table.ĥ) Remember, after you play N of a color, if you're holding N+1 (eg, 6 and 7), you might as well play that next. Their hand might be full of middlng cards, and they'll lose flexibility. I'll only take a 2/3 off the table if I have 2 or more doublers for that color already.Ģ) If I have a 4 or 5 card gap (eg, 2,7), I'll hold off on playing the 7, especially if the opponent hasn't played that color. I consider myself average at this game, but here's some things I like to do.ġ) If I have only one 9/10 and a 2/3, I'll put the 2/3 up on the table if I don't already have the double card of that color.
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